I forgot to mention I nearly hit a big turkey while I was doing about 65mph. The stupid thing was just sauntering across the road. I missed it by inches I think.
That makes the second really close call with critters on this trip. The other was a deer that almost collided with my front tire but managed to alter course at the last moment.
Proper country store and gas station. Bangor music on the radio.
I managed to ride for 3 hours without too much significant pain. I'm experimenting with holding my head further back. That seems to be offloading the most painful muscles bUt still hurts but it is not debilitating