I read on the @distang IG page that the internals of the pressure regulator can be hosed without any visible exterior corrosion so it's recommended to preemptively replace them.
After spending ages searching on Amazon, I looked at Summit Point Racing and found nothing there, so I punted and did a search on Google that immediately pointed me to this vacuum line which is super inexpensive and looks like it might work.
Also thank to Google I was able to find this line which looks like it's going to work.
For the smaller crank case breather on the front of the engine. I used roughly two feet and routed it through a small gap next to the fuel pressure regulator to the battery box area where I intend to mount the oil canister.
This is the line needed for the external gas to fuel rail connections.
This is not strictly just for the crankcase breather mod ... filed here by mistake.
After some research, it looks like the best option is to buy a 1 meter length of this tubing.
It's on Parts Fiche "FUEL PUMP/FUEL FILTER 16_0809" Item 8
Although it does not seem to be mentioned in the Clymer manual, my understanding is that these clutch mounting bolts must be replaced each time the clutch is removed.
Fiche 21_0251 CLUTCH item 7 "Screw
This o-ring must be replaced each time the clutch is removed.
It can be found on fiche 21_0251 CLUTCH.
Duncan kindly got me this part.
The clutch mounting nut apparently needs to be replaced whenever the clutch is removed.
It's on fiche 21_0251 CLUTCH.
Duncan kindly got me this part.
If memory serves, you are not supposed to reuse these nuts after the exhaust system has been removed.
This is on fiche 18_0898 EXHAUST SYSTEM item #3 Hex nut M8 SW12.
This is the vinyl tape I use with the label maker. It seems to work quite well and I've had the labels last for over 5 years out in the elements.
This is a orange/red o-ring that is used on one of the "Water Connector" (cooling system fitting) on top of the engine.
The same part is also needed when reinstalling the water pump:
For the water pump, which you would think would be listed in the cooling system section, the part can be found in the engine fiche 11_4695 WATERPUMP/OILPUMP - OIL FILTER.
It's the same part number: 11 11 1460392
No sense in putting it all back together again without new spark plugs.
The spark plug is listed on Fiche 12_0763 IGNITION SYSTEM.
My strong suspicion is that the whole reason the motor started burning so much oil all of a sudden is that my thermostat failed and I did not notice because of the simultaneous semi-failure of the temperature gauge.
So Duncan kindly bought me a new thermostat ... before we knew that this engine swap project would need to be done. Regardless, this new thermostat is going in when the bike goes back together.
It's on Fiche 17_0623 RADIATOR - THERMOSTAT/FAN.
Every time you remove the exhaust you have to replace these copper crush gaskets. Make sure that the old gaskets are removed. They can sometimes get stuck up in the head.
It's part #2 on fiche 18_0898 'EXHAUST SYSTEM'. It's called "Gasket ring C32X40".
For the parts cleaner, this is the degreaser I have been using. Since this is the first parts cleaner I've ever owned, I don't know if this a good or poor option but it claims to be largely biodegradable and seems to work quite well.
The parts cleaner (see tools) can hold four gallons but apparently needs over two so that the pump pickup will work.
I'm looking at these stoppers to seal the holes in the airbox when I do the crankcase vent tube and canister modification.
Buying this whole pack was overkill as I really only need three of the stoppers. I got the assortment because I do not know ahead of time which stopper is going to work well enough to seal the holes in the airbox.
I've pulled the trigger on this. This setup matches the stock setup much more closely and from my research is probably the best option.