I've been reading and reading and everybody's saying their Idols supposed to be somewhere around a thousand 1200 RPM but my bike idles at about 450 to 500 fairly smooth but I'd like to bring the idle up just a little bit but I'm not sure exactly where to adjust it from I know there's an adjustment on the cable coming out of the throttle grip but it's pretty much maxed out so is there another place that I can adjust all for carburetors to up the idle slightly any pics or links to pictures would be greatly appreciated thanks guys,, and by the way I remove the exhaust and put a downpipe so I'm running a straight header with an exit pipe and it sounds absolutely Wicked just deafening but I like it until I can get a slip on

I suspect having an open pipe will affect the idle as you have less back pressure. 

Having said that, if memory serves, there should be black idle adjustment knob on the left side that's kind of a pain to get to.

what I meant is the idle was low before and after it didn't affect the idle really at all it's just idling too low around 500 RPM maybe in slight bit lower it idles smooth but still too low for my taste I guess I could have just the cable where it goes into pull off for carburetors I can adjust a little tension on it maybe but it looked like it was a pain to get to

So, the main point of having the idle speed at a given place is to set the minimum speed at which the motor will run reliably, do at least minimal battery charging, keep oil circulating sufficiently through the motor and (and oil coolers if the bike has one), and (in the case of a liquid cooled motor) sufficiently flow coolant through the radiator. Perhaps equally importantly, you want the motor idling at a point where it will wind smoothly and without hesitation (or possible stalling) when you go to open the throttle.

Which is a very long winded way of saying, "it's generally best to set the idle speed where the manufacturer recommends it".

As for straight pipes, they may sound wicked, but they will definitely affect the fuel mixture--in general, leaning it out through out the throttle range. It may in some cases lead to overheating, and burned exhaust valves. So if you're going to go to a straight pipe, you'd definitely want to look at retuning all the fuel circuits (idle/midrange/WOT) to compensate. You'll also want to move an unrestricted air filter as well (like a K&N) to help match the exhaust adjustment.

 For the record, it's quite possible to wind up losing power with a straight pipe relative to where you started out, as even factory pipes are tuned to some degree going back a number of years now. The manufacturers are (in general) always looking for that ideal compromise between muffling and power...

On my bandit, the idle adjustment screw is on the bottom of the carb rail right in the middle. it's a pain to reach, and it gets hot in there if the engine has been running. 

i got my idle to a hair over 1000.

as far as straight pipe, i havent run it long, just a test to a theory.
i was right, was very rich...
so i cut the factory pipe in half, removed excess from tip, and tigging it back on to an empty can... Some backpressure, half a loud as open headder, good gain in performance. (Using accelerometer software).... But was actually considering a meffler from auto parts place... Its a DC glasspack, stainless, nice finish, about 40$ online, and is one of those honda (race type) mufflers but as far as the pipe itself... Its light, beautiful, cheap, same size as every aftermarket can ive seen and just the same design internnaly as any other glasspack.
just needs a bracket welded on and to get weld to factory midpipe. But thats a different thread ill open...