Ever have one of those moments upon arriving somewhere you know you're about to learn something unexpected?
I rolled up and before I had my helmet off the garage door opened to reveal a motorcyclists nirvana.
Rack of gear on the left. Aerostich Roadcrafter, well worn. Check.
Garage. Immaculately clean. Check.
Row of BMW Vintage and Adventure posters on the right. Check.
Vstrom with aluminum panniers. Check.
Newish FJR. Ok, a little weird, but check.
The 2006 F650GS Dakar I had come to see had been significantly undersold.
"Prepped and ready for around the world adventure." might have been a better description.
Strangely, talking to Ron about his travels, experiences and technical knowledge made me feel like a rank beginner. I mean, damn, this guy has done a lot and is so much more plugged into our motorcycling world than I ever have been.
The bike appeared prepped and turn key. It had a host of Touratech upgrades that had been extremely well thought out. Two integrated "spare" tanks, in blue, on each side, provided for a range of over 430 miles. Once the main tank runs to reserve you stop, flip a petcock, wait a few seconds and continue riding.
A carefully thought out tap allowed you to, through the secondary petcock to drain fuel into a camp stove.
It has a complete set of touratech guards including: handle bars, engine, under engine plate and kickstand plate. He also has the chainsprocket and chain guards.
Two large metal panniers were supported with a hefty mounting system. He pointed out that he had two spare levers wire tied to the mounts. "In case of an off". That theme repeated itself as he had various spares securely wire-tied including a spare axle nut and washer. "Changing a tire in the mud sucks if you lose that nut." he said with an air of 'been there, made that mistake.".
He had routed a spare clutch cable that sits unused next to the in-service one allowing for quick repairs if it breaks. He also had a spare throttle cable.
The footpegs and levers were also after market. He mentioned he had gone through much of the bike and had pre-emptively replaced the water pump impellor since they are known to go bad on that model.
He had redone the front with, I believe they were, Worx springs and the rear sported an Ohlins shock.
He also replaced the seat, added a rear rack and had a host of other upgrades too numerous to remember. Behind the bike sat a new set of 90/10 Michelin tires ready to mount.
"Wattage is a problem on these bikes. It has a 400 watt alternator and the bike uses 300 watts to run, so there's enough power left over to run the heated grips and a vest and that's about it" So he added a voltage meter that sits tastefully about the tachometer.
"Battery life is also a problem since it's in a hot location so it's now insulated, but regardless you should check it every few thousand miles."
All needed service had been done and it seemed to be in perfect condition.
We got to talking about the TAT and he sounds like he's pretty much done it all. If he hasn't, he's certainly done sections of it including Copper Canyon, if memory serves. He also offered, should I buy the bike, to take me through the most common kinds of repairs one might end up doing on the side of the road. "You should know the bike if you're doing to do a trip like that." he said and I agree.
I took the thing for a very short test ride. It's buzzy, as is to be expected from a thumper. It's also /TALL/. I mean wicked R1200GS Adventure tall. I was not able to flat foot the thing. It feels very big and a bit unwieldy. The bags are simply huge. "It's a truck." he said. But it is comfortable.
As I mentioned to him, I do not think that another bike that is as well set up for serious adventure riding will cross my path again.
But the height is really causing me pause. If I get this bike, it would be a single purpose machine and I wonder, not knowing, if it's "too much" for the purpose I am intending on using it for. As far as adventure riding goes, I'm a novice and I don't know if something like this might be too much.
Years ago I had an XL350 that I would take trail riding and it's from that perspective, right or wrong, that I'm coming at this from. I don't know what the technical sections of the TAT so I'm relying on my past experience to guide me. A shorter smaller bike would be easier to deal with on technical trails. But then he mentioned something.
He talked about the tires for a while and suggested getting more aggressive dual sport tires for the trip. "Deep mud is a problem. On these tires (the ones on there right now), you get into deep mud and you can just forget about it."
Deep mud. I hadn't thought about that. The videos I've seen have only shown modest creek crossings and the occasional puddle but deep mud or deep water can be a problem. Getting stuck would suck. Having that extra suspension and height would certainly help in those cases I would imagine. I guess it's a question of compromises. How much flat? How much technical? How much mud? How far from civilization? If it were an around the world trip I think this truck would be the right answer. Large enough to carry enough but small enough to be workable. So I told him that I have to think about it for a while ... what am I going to do with it once I get back? It can't be used as a trainer and it's too tall to use as a guest bike except for Bruce and Duncan.
Even if I don't buy the bike (Maybe one of you guys might want to look at it, it's impressive.) I hope he joins us here. He's incredibly knowledgeable and has been writing for Iron Butt Magazine and is more connected into the touring/sport/adventure BMW. He also mentioned a few rider courses geared at the "seriously advanced riders" which he has taken a number of times.
I wanted to do a comparison contrast so I headed over to Bob's and test rode three bikes theres: a 2009 F650GS, a 2012 F800GS and a 2008 KLR 650. The 2009 only had 1K miles on it, the KLR 3k.
This bike felt very much like my XL350 used to. It's much lower to the ground and lighter than the Dakar. It's not really an off-road bike, more suited to slightly more challenging dirt roads like the ones we typically ride. With it's cast wheels and shorter travel suspension, it would not be up for any kind of brutal off road duty but with some minor modifications and taking it easy it could probably make the trip. As Milner implied in a previous post, the engine sounds like a sewing machine but it's very quiet and smooth. The front brake reservoir gives me pause. It seems a bit fragile. The bike has the advantage that it would make a good guest bike and may even be able to do double duty as a trainer. Having the two cylinder motor and updated frame and suspension also feels like a big plus.
I did feel like I could do any of the trails I used to ride on this bike. Deep mud or water, not so sure. If I were to get a bike like this I would at the least have to add the engine guards and probably hand guards. The seat would also need to be replaced. There's no way I could do all those miles on that seat.
And it would obviously need different tires. The bags that come with this bike are probably adequate but would probably not survive an off. The asking prices of the 2006 is $5800. The asking price of the 2009 is $8700, but there's probably some room to negotiate.
The F800GS is really the "Adventure" version of the F650GS. Despite the nomenclature, the two bikes share the same motor. The F800 produces a bit more power, is much taller and is more geared towards more adventurous off-road riding. It has the same flaky brake reservoir. I found the F800 to be more stable on the road and more confident in corners. While you're on it, unlike the 2006 Dakar, you don't feel like you're on a tall bike until you go to put your foot down. It's quiet, powerful and confidence instilling. It "feels" like a higher end version of the 650 but I don't know if the upgrades are worth the significant price increase. At around $14K out the door without any of the extras I would need, like bags, it's well outside the range of what I would want to pay for. But it's an interesting data point.
Ok, I tried to have an open mind. I really did. I took it for a test ride. Carbs! Fuck I hate carbs. Manual choke. RPM's never did settle down to where they needed to be so I guess the carb needs a bit of adjustment. Again I hate carbs. The thing buzzes like nobody's business. Because of all that breakable plastic I did have a fair amount of wind protection. Unlike the F650GS I didn't really get the feeling that I could confidently do any real trail riding on this. It's really tall, but not as tall as the Dakar. I could just barely flat foot it. Everything felt really cheap like it would break easily in a fall. But it was really cheap, by comparison to BMW prices. I think the asking price is around $4800 or so. The bike is pretty powerful and I had it up to 80 and it felt stable. The buzzing would kill me. No heated grips so I was freezing a bit today, but that's not going to be an issue over the summer. It also would not make much of a good guest bike and definitely could not be used as a trainer.
They did have a 2001 F650GS thumper which I failed to try. It has the lowered seat and seems much more like a street bike than any of the others but I believe I saw one in one of the TAT articles I read. It would be a cheap option, assuming I could live with it for that long, and it would make an excellent trainer bike. It might just be a bit too far on the other end of the spectrum.
So, in a nutshell, I have much more to learn and I need to get a better sense of what the TAT entails. Can it be done on what amounts to a light duty offroad/trail bike or do we really need to go something much more dirt oriented? Is a real adventure bike too much? Too big? Too tall? Too heavy?