Seward and The Kenai

The Seward Highway runs south from Anchorage and onto the Kenai Peninsula. This area, despite being only a couple of hours from Anchorage (which, while small, is still a big place for Alaska), is a wilderness wonderland. It was the one place, other than Denali (and to be honest, more than Denali) that I wanted to go when I got to Alaska.


It was overcast and rainy when I left Anchorage, not the best riding weather but it was good to get on the road again. And I was excited to get out of the town, free camping or no.


Since the weather wasn't the best I didn't take a lot of pictures. My camera, just a Point and Shoot I bought for $150, was starting to act up in the rain. Maybe I needed to drop it less.

Once I got into the Kenai wilderness I stopped at a ranger station to ask about camping rules. This was Bear Country, and the salmon run was on. While I had bear spray, I wasn't completely happy with my food storage situation and didn't want to just wander off and get eatten.

I was directed to a couple of campgrounds that had food storage, and where there were bears to see. Hopefully from a safe distance. The first campground wasn't that great, just your standard sort of place. Then I went to the next one and found this site-

With this view-

That was my chair.

I set up the new hammock tent I also picked up in Achorage. So comfy, if you have trees. You can set it up on the ground if you don't have trees, but it is less comfy that way. And it is much smaller and lighter than the Nomad tent I had been using, though I never could bring myself to send that monster home.

With the camp up, some food cooked and the rest put away, I went for a walk. The camp hosts pointed me to a creek which went under a nearby road. They cautioned me not to just wander in the woods, since there was a mom with two cubs around. If I made enough noise I might be okay, or not. They did make sure I had bear spray before they would let me go anywhere.

I walked over to the creek-

Saw good signs-

They were counting the salmon run. Numbers were so-so, though I got the impression the counters just didn't want to comment in any real way.

I sat for about 40 minutes, waiting for bear sign. I did see some fish, working their way up stream, but then the sun was getting low and I had to hike back to my site. I stood up, shouldered my backpack, and turned around.

Then I got out my bear spray, took the safety off, got out my camera and took this picture without really looking at it. No zoom, the bear was actually closer than this seems, thanks to the wide angle action. Maybe 20 yards, and I saw a cub head into the woods before I got the picture. Then I started slowing walking away, trying not to make eye contact while still making sure she wasn't going to head my way.

A truck appeared on the road, roaring over a hill in the direction I was walking. Momma bear gave a head shake and walked into the woods. I took a deep breath and put away the spray.

The truck stopped and asked if I had seen a bear. I gave them the report and they said they were going to pass it on to the ranger. The bear movements are tracked this way I guess. I told the camp host anyway, who expressed some concern I had only seen one cub. I was concerned I had let them get that close. Stupid on my part, I guess.

The next day I left the camp site and roamed around Kenai a little on Curiosity.




After the day riding I headed back to camp for dinner and sleep. I didn't see any other wildlife except a giant rabbit-

Bigger than most house cats I have known.

The first night sleep I had in the hammock was so-so, I am used to sleeping on my side or stomach, which just doesn't work in a hammock. The second night was much better, and I felt really good in the morning. It was time to start heading back south, mostly.

Sorry for the delay, some issues with the book (Like the beta readers didn't like it) has forced a complete re-write, which has taken a lot of time. I am almost back on the new schedule, so I can get back to posting.

In case you were wondering, this isn't actually the text from the book, but just notes on where I was and when. I wish I could have this many pictures (fewer typos), but since there will be print copies the cost would be...uncomfortable.

I am hoping to make at least one update a week. Hope you enjoy!

I packed up and headed back up the Seward Highway, this time gifted with clear skies and warm weather, so I could see how awesome the view was.


Once off the peninsula and through Anchorage again I headed for Tok, where I would be getting back on the Alaska Highway for a while (there are only a couple ways into and out of Alaska). I wasn't going to follow it all the way back south, instead ride along the Pacific Coast near Hyder.

But first I had to get out of Alaska, and it is a big place.

I stopped short of Tok near a place called Glennallen, and found somewhere to camp outside of town. Then I headed back into town to find somewhere to eat. It had cooled off again and was drizzling, not the best weather to sit alone in the woods and try to cook.
I met these people there -

The father and son had ridden up to Anchorage, where she had flown up to join them and ride back south. Her joining them had caused some need to repack, and they all had bought warmer clothes. I guess she was using the heated stuff now, but her feet still got cold. They bought me dinner, a very nice burger, inside. They were also going to press on further to Tok, where they already had a hotel reserved. It was late and getting dark, and Tok was still 4 hours away. I was impressed with they determination, but I guess it was too late for a refund.

I went back to my tent and listened to the rain against the sides for a while before falling asleep.

It was still overcast and cool in the morning, but I got back on the road (after hot tea) and headed on. The sky cleared again as the morning went on, and I passed through Tok with a stop for fuel. There was no sign of the two Harley's so I guessed they were far ahead of me now.

Crossing back into Canada was simple, easier than getting into the USA had been further north, and I started towards Haines Junction, where I was going to be turning off the Alaska Highway. I wasn't going to get that far, but should be able to cover most of the distance. Thinking about that met I went right through Beaver Creek without getting fuel, even though I was at half a tank (Breaking my half-a-tank rule). When I was clear of the buildings I realized it, but there was supposed to be another gas stop further along. Since I was in “make miles” mode mentally I pressed on.

I got to the small stop, just a campground, crepe restaurant (staffed and owned by some French Canadians) and motel. They had a on the high reporting gas was available, but there actually wasn't any. In fact, there hadn't been for a couple of years. I didn't really know how range I had left, but I was exactly in between two fuel locations, the next being Burwash Landing, about 50 miles up the road. That would be 200 miles on one tank of gas, possible. But it wasn't like I had a lot of choice, so I started on my way, keeping my speed down to stretch my range.

So I was 10 miles short of Burwash when Curiosity ran out of gas, sputtering to a stop on the side of the road.

For a while I wondering about pushing it the rest of the way, 10 miles is still pretty far. But then I remembered my MSR stove. The small gas can was almost full, and I added it to the tank. It wouldn't last, but it would take some of the miles off.

In fact, the bike died again just as I reached the gas station in Burwash Landing...which had closed for the day an hour earlier. Down the hill was a hotel that offered camping, and they assured me the gas station would open in the morning, and had gas. So I set up the hammock.

There were two other riders camping. One was from Israel, and had flown into Anchorage gotten a motorcycle license and bought a new KLR. He was going to ride as far south as he could on his vacation/trip of a lifetime, and had managed Anchorage to Burwash Landing in one day. He hoped to be in San Diego in five more, which sounded like no where near enough time, especially for a new rider. But I wished him luck, and explained how to set up his brand-new tent.

The other rider was on a GSA, he had a lot...I mean a whole bunch...of stuff strapped to it. I mention him in Going Small – He was the guy carrying a wood burning stove which he hadn't used. A nice enough guy, he was heading back from Valdez.

I slept well in the Hammock, I was getting used to it and it set up and tore down in half the time of the big tent. The KLR woke me up in the morning, before 7. He was already packed and getting ready to head out. I went back to sleep, waking again an hour or so later. The gas station loaned me a gas can, which I used to put enough fuel in Curiosity to get it to the pump for a fill up. Then it was time to get moving again.

The book, well Volume one (departure until I tried for the arctic circle) is nearing completion. There is now a Facebook page, which will be active for all three parts and include excerpts, chances to get free copies and other stuff.

1

I headed south, back through Whitehorse and into Watson Lake, where this time I stayed in the Air Force Hotel. Run by a german, it's a converted Air Force barrack, but warm and clean. It had been cold and rainy for the previous few days, and I welcomed the chance to warm up.

In the morning as I was packing to leave there were three more bikes parked outside. A big BMW, new KLR, and a small Tenere, the 660 not available on this continent. I hadn't seen the riders, and thought about staying to see if I could catch them, but decided to press on. I was heading for the Cassier Highway, which led due south from Watson Lake towards Seattle.

With my speedometer still not working, and having ridden through rain for the previous few days, I was determined again to fix the bike. The rain was making it impossible to use the GPS for anything, the screen was being confused by the water since it had delaminated before I even entered Canada. I had called my mechanic and arranged for him to ship my spare wheel hub to friends in Seattle, and I was headed there to change it out. Of course, Seattle was still a ways off.



Most of the days were chilly, and even though this day started out without rain, it was raining again before long. The Cassier was another one of those roads without a lot of services, but I was confident I could make it without any issues.



I stopped for fuel at the last place before the Glacier highway, which led to Stewart and Hyder, and there met the BMW rider. Named Mark and from the UK, he was freezing and soaked. It seems he had left the waterproof liner for his riding suit somewhere, and the cold rain was gong right through to his skin. The gas station, more of a lodge really, gave us both free coffee. Apparently he was riding with the other two bikes I had seen that morning, but they had left early and he was trying to catch up. After wringing out some of his inside layers and drinking some coffee he got back on the road. Not long after I followed.

I hadn't been sure about going to Hyder. It was a dead end road, and in the cold and rain I had a desire to keep moving south, but when I got to the turn I took it. Glacier Highway is probably one of the nicer highways in North America, even in the rain and fog. I couldn't see much, but the cold was enough to let me know there were glaciers around.



I caught up with the other three bikes in Stewart, where we found out there wasn't any rooms left in the hotels. This meant we rode to Hyder, where I headed to the campground and they went to the one place we had been told still had space. In the campground I decided the cold rainy weather just wasn't tent weather, and I headed to the same place.

They had taken the last two single rooms, so I got the cabin in the back. Usually it was more, but since it was the last room I got it for the same rate as one of the standard rooms would have been. And I got my own bathroom (and kitchen, but I didn't use that). I met Mark and his two friends, Brian and Richard for dinner. They were all from the UK. Brian and Richard had ridden the America's before together, but bike issues had kept Brian from finishing the whole route. He had come back to fill in the missing bits, and Richard had flown over to ride with. The KLR was a rental. They had met Mark on the road and the three had been traveling together.

All the windows in my cabin had been open when I entered it, and since it was in the 40s and raining I had closed them. All my riding gear and wet clothes I had hung up around the room, and I thought the cabin was nice and toasty when I crawled into bed. When I woke around 1am, it was beyond toasty and the thermostat read 90 degrees. I had it set for 60, but apparently the heat won't shut off. I guess that was why the windows were open.

I was up early, enjoying my shower. Unsurprisingly all my stuff was dry. The night before we had all talked about going to Fish Creek to look for bears, but their bikes were still sitting in the parking lot when I rolled Curiosity out to the street. I guess I could have gone knocking, but decided they were adults and could sleep in if they wanted.

Later I found out they had been up, but their stuff was still soaked and they were giving it extra time to dry. All well.

I headed for Fish Creek. The road in Hyder (there really is only the one) is mostly potholes. They start almost as soon as you cross over from Stewart. Entering Hyder doesn't require you to show your passport, but leaving it does. I thought that a bit strange, but I guess Hyder isn't really convenient to get to.

I got to Fish Creek in time to catch the bear fishing.



And while taking pictures in the rain my camera stopped working. I wasn't very worried, figuring it just had to dry out, and I just watched the bears for a while from the elevated walks.



I wonder if those would really stop a bear.

As I was getting ready to leave Jeremy on his VFR came pulling up. He had managed to get a room in Stewart, and crossed over to Hyder to see the bears. We got caught up on where we had been, then I headed back for the Cassier Highway and he headed into Fish Creek.

Some time during the night part of the Glacier Highway flooded, but I managed it okay, the water was just over the footpegs. Once headed south again the weather started to get better too.

I ended up in a town called Smithers, and since it was my third month on the road I went out to dinner (I had camped in the city park. They were going to have showers...in a month maybe). Leaving the restaurant I met up with Brian and Richard, who had taken a room in a hotel. Brian had taken off on his own, speeding south for warmer weather. After some chatting I agreed to meet them in the morning for the ride to Prince George. Brian had arranged a couchsurf for three and they had an extra spot.

The first of three book is done, and available in color, black and white[/URL], and for kindle. The black and white version come with a free pdf download from my website, though you can also [URL="/"]buy the pdf there[/URL] if you like.